Agra - Gwalior - Shivpuri

Dharamsala - Risikesh - Delhi

I left Amristar, and its beautiful Temple, I took my racksack to Darahmsala, in Himachal Pradesh, is in this place where Dalai Lama lives, but during my visit he was in Japan. The landscape changed suddenly... High mountains, cool weather... And my first belly problems... I was sick for three days aftear eating some bread in a Tibetan Bakery... So I didn't do any trecking arround. When I was better I went directly to Risikesh, the place that I visited before, and I loved it... Now I found it different... All its special atmosphere changed... Now it was dirtier, busiest, and with more stupid peace and love tourist than before... After visiting Haridwar again, I went to Delhi. This time I found it more poluted than before, the food wasn't as good and before, and the prices were more expensive... Despite of all that I spent almost a week there, so Delhi isn't too bad.

Punjab

My first city in Punjab was the big market of Multan, this is a very nice, but exhausting city. My two first visit to hotels weren't succesful, so they're full, but the third was the right one, not a really good room, but for just 200 Rupees it was very OK. Straight from there, and after waiting for more than 4 hours at train station, due to a delay, I arrived to the wonderful city of Lahore. As Lonely Planet recommended, I went to Regale INN Internet Guest house, this place is really clean and cheap, despite of dormitory rooms, they only accept foreigners guest, it means that they keep dirty away... There I met Ricardo from Argentina, really nice guy, but he was going to China, and I went to India, so we couldn't travel together, at least we had a nice time going to Lahore's Food Street. I was tired of Lahore's pollution, and I went to Wagah, the boder, this is an interesting place, all soldiers are very kind. So in just few meters I arrived to India! I though that Pakistan was India already, but definetly it's different, here people just think about money, when they look at you, the just see Euro walking, despite than Pakistan is poorer, it doesn't happen there... As I arrived in afternoon I had to wait almost four hours to see the closing ceremony, despite everyone told me it was OK, I took a CicloRickcshaw to Attari town, and from there a bus to Amristar. When I arrived to Amristar the first thing I did was buying an India SIM Card, and at Telecom shop my arrival was a kind of a Party! I must to say that Sikh people are different to the rest of indians, they're much serious but you can trust (in the most of times) with them.

Then I was hosted at wonderful Golden Temple

Balochistan

From Kerman I reached Zahedan, I should to say that I was a little afraid, so everyone told me that Zahedan, and all Balochistan wasn't safe. But at the end I discovered that, despite it's not the best place of Iran, Zahedan was a quite safe place. On next day early morning I got to the border, I wanted to bargain, but taxi driver charged me 40.000 Rials, a lot of money, if I think that the car was full... But I couldn't argue the price. After crossing Iran check Point, I arrived to desolated Pakistan border, no one was there for receiving me, in fact I could have crossed the border without passing by passport control, definetly I arrived to Pakistan! on the border I changed the money with a fucking shark who charged me a huge comission, but there was no other option, so Taftan, the border town, is a desolated place. After waiting for more than six hours, at the end I could take the bus to Quetta. Before departing the bus was full of sand or flour bags, I don't know, so when the roof was full, the guys full bus corridor as well, the bus was so dirty and dusty... But the passengers were still diertier than bus, despithe of their hospitality, Baluchis are fuckin' pigs! after the long way by the isolated road, I reached Quetta at the end, as I arrived at 4 in the morning, I slepted at bus station sofa, really quiet and confortable. I woke up, it was 9 in the morning, just a kid was at waiting room. I stood up and when I was in the street, I've realized that suddlenly I've arrived to India: Dirty streets, donkeys and goats on the road, rickshaws, smoke.... and good food at the end!

Isfahan - Yazd - Shiraz

When I arrived to Isfahan, I've realized how sharks are taxi drivers in this city, but I couldn't do anything, it was late at night and I hadn't accomodation, so I was in their hands. On the morning I phoned Ruhi, so he arrived one day before, and we met. After all day walking we went to Nomad Carpet shop, Mr. Hussein was very kind, he speaks Spanish, Turkish, and many other languages, he invited us for a tea. On the evening I met Javad, a guy from Hospitality Club, he invited to his home, and as he had some holidays, we went together to Yazd. Yazd is a nice city, but nothing special (as all Iran), we visited some touristics sights, and next day we decided to go to Chack Chack, the Zorotrian temple, in fact it isn't really special, but the trip costed 25 euros. Afterwards we moved to Shiraz, where a Javad's friend, Farshad, hosted us in his house with his friendly family. Farshad showed us Persepolis, and other important remains of the surrondigs. In Persopolis I was able to get in in touch with a Mula, a nice experience... ?

Persia

At the end I've arrived to Persia! The real journey started in Erzurum, where I could collect my Iranian Visa, after going 4 times to Consulate, waiting for a long time in Oyak Bank to make payment fee, I got my visa already. Despite of I spent just 2 days in Erzurum, I must to say is the best place in Turkey. City is cool, cheap food, and no traffic jams.

Afterwards I moved to Dogubayazit, in order to go to Iran border, despite it's a small city is full of shops, everything domined by Agri mountain. After arriving to Iranian border I met Ruhi, a guy from Bursa who wanted to visit Iran, thanks to him I could manage all the money changers that were pushing us for changing after border pass. After 3 hours by taxi we arrived to Tabriz, the first important city after border. In this country the things are different, all women are covered with black clothes, young and old. I don't know if they like, if the want, but they're used to... Tabriz has a wonderful bazaar, the best is that it isn't as touristic nor crowded taht Istanbul, moreover is much cheaper! At the begining I felt that people didn't like us, for example, when checking in at hotel, my fare was

higher than the one for my turkish friend, but I think it's because they aren't used to meet tourist, but at the end these people use to be very friendly, like the one I met at Internet cafe, they were so happy to receive a Spaniard visit, taht they didn't want to charge me anything for using computers!

After a long night by bus, and military checkings we arrived to Theran. In this huge city isn't too much to do. Probably the best is the former USA embassy, so it's empty, and the best is sight of "DOWN WITH THE USA", casually I agree with it...

One of the funiest things have been when I was to National museum, I started to talk with a group of tenagers girls, who were visiting with school, they were very interested to talk to me, but suddenly the staff appeared and separed us. I asked if there was any problem, but I received no answer...

Before comining here I wanted to meet some locals, but I haven't been able, but Iran is a big country and I hope to stay, or at least, have a meal with a local family. Maybe in Isfahan it will be possible... Let's see!

Nemrut

From Urfa I went to Khata in order to get a dolmuş to Karadut. But on the Bus station a guy suggested me to go to hıs pensıon, Karadut Pensıon. I thought, why not? They're frıendly, but they charge you more money than the one they said at the begınıng, and ıt's not fair... Anyway, I went there as everybody goes. It's nothıng specıal, but I went by foot, and it took me 4 hours clımbıng... Really tyred....

Şanli Urfa

From Göreme, I've traveled to Urfa, on the way I met to very nice guys who where studing at Kaysery University. I arrıved to Urfa after midnight, as I were a liıttle lost, I asked to Neccemetim, he's runing Çifçi market ın Urfa. He help me a lot: to fınd hotel and to brıng me to old vıllage of Harran ın Sounth Urfa. Despite he doesn't speak English, it hasn't been a huge matter to undersatand each other. Very nıce guy Necmettim, he ınvıted me to dinner and to have as many Çays as I wanted.

Capadocıa

After overnıght bus from Istanbul-Harem, I arrıved to Göreme. The vıllage ıs nıce, but ıt's too tourıstıc and people are a lıttle unfrıendly. The best ıs that IU only pay 10 Lıra per nıght, and landscapes are wonderful. Next day I went top Çausaven, next to Göreme, thıs vıllage probably ıs better, people are a lıttle more frıendly, despıte of landscapes, there ısn't too much to enjoy there.

Leaving Istanbul

After waiting for one week the fucking authorization code from IranianVisa.com, I`ve decide to leave Istanbul already. I have nothing else to do here here, my friend Sezence is busy, and this city is too big and crowd for me. So the only reason for staying more is busy... I`ve asked to iranianVisa.com to chage my collecting visa consulate to Erzurum, it has cost 22 euros more, so at the end Iran Visa will cost me about 100 euros. But that`s OK, I want to go there...
Today I`ve been walking, as everyday, but I didn`t do too much. Despite I have no ticket to Goreme, I hope to get for tomorrow`s coach, hope to be lucky!

In my staying

in Istanbul I`ll always remember Jose and Alvaro meeting, two very nice guys from Barcelona. We tried to get drunk with the awfully and expensive Turkish beer, but with is bad taste is difficult to get drunk...

Istanbul

Landed to Istanbul already. Plane landed, I took metro, and in front of me a 2-3 months baby has welcomed me till arrive to Aksaray Station. I went to Istanbul Hostel, next to Blue Mosque. I went to Iran Consulate, but they have`t received Authorization number from Iran MFA, probably I should to wait for more than a week in this expensive city. But everything isn`t bad, Istanbul is very dinamic, you can spend full time just walking arround and cannot get bored. Grand Bazaar is huge, but very, very expensive, you can`t find really good deals here, despite of clothes, that have reasonable price. But I can`t buy anything so I`m not on vaccation, and my trip will be long.

By the 0ther hand, I`ve been able to meet a wonderful lady, Sezen, she and her cousin are very friendly and very helpful. Thanks to them I`ve been able to know Taxim Square Bars. This area of Istanbul reminds me to Brussels city centre. A really nice place to have a dirnk. hope to meet them again...

PAK VISA

Finally today I got PAK Visa, I just have to get Iranian Visa, hope to get it in Istanbul! I bought for flying on 30th September, I'm trying to contactc people trought HospitalityClub.com, I think I'll spend a good time!